we are finally back in Roma, after postponing our autumn 2013 trip. I will try to keep these posts a little shorter, and perhaps a bit more frequent. I'm including a few photos I snapped on my first walkies, while Emil was taking a nap.
Here's an overview map of Roma, with two detail maps following.
(These will almost always be Google maps.)
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| General overview of Rome. Area of this blog is in red circle. |
I will try to have at least one reference point in any maps. Three of the most usual reference points on the closer in maps will be: purple arrow - monument to Vittorio Emmanuel, at Piazza Venezia; blue arrow - Colosseum; green arrow - main train station (Termini).
Below is the detail map (and satellite view) of the red oval area above. Inside this little area, there are enough places of historical, religious and artistic interest to fill a book, including about
15 religious institutions and churches. This is a higher density than usual, but this area is very near the ancient Forum and has been important throughout Rome's long history.
15 religious institutions and churches. This is a higher density than usual, but this area is very near the ancient Forum and has been important throughout Rome's long history.
Before I put you all to sleep, below is the first picture. The stump of an ancient bridge is now called the "Ponte Rotto" (broken bridge). On the map, the yellow-orange arrow points to it. In the middle is the Tiber Island, a vital early point for Rome, as it made crossing the Tiber much easier to bridge. This island has always been associated with healing (there was a temple to the ancient god Asclepius here), and there is still a hospital, and also a lovely church, Sant Bartolomeo.
In the background is the dome of the Jewish Synagogue, (arrow near upper left of this map. Sorry about two arrows turning out the same color.) The Synagogue was added around the turn of the 1900's. There has been a Jewish community in Rome for 2,000 years. Again, this is another topic that has many books written on it already, but I'm holding off saying more for now.
photo of Ponte Rotto, Tiber Island, and
Synagogue rising in the right background.
In the middle of the Foro Boario is this small,
early temple, to "Portunus"
(4th or 3rd Century B.C.; restored in 1st C. B.C.),
restored most recently in the past three years.
Portunus was a youthful god, associated with seaports and water crossings.
See the World Monument Fund site
for more info.
http://www.wmf.org/project/temple-portunus in English.
This small temple survived due to its
becoming a small church.
Here's a view of it, from the other short end,
as engraved by Piranesi in the mid 1700's.
(source: http://sights.seindal.dk/img/orig/10014.jpg)
Here's this week's view,
after two and a half centuries,
and a major cleaning/restoration --
probably the first since the 1920's.
The interior is not open to the public,
and a high fence keeps snap-shooters off it.
Note the small round temple in the right background, half hidden by trees.
Below is a view of the round temple,
now identified as being dedicated to Heracles,
from about a hundred feet the other side of the temple of Portunus.
This fountain is called after its location,
"La Fontana della Bocca Verita",
and was ordered by Pope Clement XI,
(reigned 1700-1721).
The round temple is to "Hercules Victor",
although it was long believed to be to Vesta,
the goddess of sacred fires,
and was first built in the 2nd C. BC.
The above view is an engraving by Vasi,
mid 1700's. There's much more info at
http://www.romeartlover.it/Vasi56.html
The below shot is from the side of the temple of Hercules Victor, looking towards Santa Maria in Cosmedin. The entire piazza has the name of "Bocca della Verita'"
from the the "Mouth of Truth"
on the front porch of the church.
Below is a close up of some of the capitals.
The leftmost has been completely recreated, based on the remains;
the middle one is missing its top
so a plain block is there;
and the last one is typical of the general condition of these capitals.
The monks at S. Maria in Cosmedin
have a "cash cow"
on their front porch. It is their
large, ancient, decorative sewer cover,
set upright against a wall.
Tourists line up by the hundreds
at a time to pay for their
"15 seconds of fame" photo opportunity performing the
test of their truthfulness by sticking their hand
in the "mouth" of the sewer cover's face.
NO ONE has ever failed this test.
I am too cheap to wait in line for a proper photo
of the "Mouth of Truth",
so here's a similar (and I think nicer looking) one a few blocks away
outside the church of Santa Sabina.
Below is a view of the inside of
Santa Maria in Cosmedin.
The columns are from various ancient
(PAGAN) temples. Nearly all of the folks
waiting patiently in line for their
"moment of truth" photo don't have
the time to explore this wonderful old church.
However, I said I would keep this short,
and so shall close here for the moment.
Again, I hope you all are well.
Ciao, Carol
